You left the salon with your dream hair: creamy blonde, glossy brunette, or a perfectly blended balayage. But a few weeks later, something changed. The tone looks warmer, duller, or just ‘off’. Your once-cool blonde is now yellowish, or your rich brown has taken on an orange hue. What happened? The answer lies in a little phenomenon called brassiness, and the best way to fight it is through the science of toning.
Why Hair Turns Brassy
Brassiness occurs when the warm undertones in your hair start to reappear. Every hair colour has underlying pigments. Blondes contain yellow, brunettes have orange, and darker shades carry red undertones. When hair is lightened or coloured, those pigments are lifted, but not completely removed. Over time, as your colour fades, the cooler tones that were deposited during your salon appointment begin to wash away, revealing the warmer pigments beneath.
Several factors accelerate this process. Sun exposure can oxidize hair colour, while frequent washing, heat styling, and mineral-heavy water strip away the pigments that keep your shade balanced. The result? Hair that loses its refined tone and starts to look brassy or uneven.
The Science of Toners
A toner is a semi-permanent colour product designed to correct and refine your hair’s tone. It doesn’t drastically change your colour; instead, it adjusts the hue to restore balance and shine. Toners work by depositing tiny molecules of pigment into the hair’s cuticle, neutralizing unwanted undertones. The science behind it is simple but effective: colours opposite each other on the colour wheel cancel each other out.
That’s why purple toners neutralize yellow tones in blonde hair, blue toners correct orange tones in brunettes, and silver toners enhance ash or cool tones. During a toning service, your stylist will choose the right formula based on your existing shade, level of lightness, and desired result. The process takes only a few minutes but can make your colour look instantly refreshed and luminous.
Why Toners Fade Over Time
Unlike permanent hair colour, toners don’t penetrate deep into the hair shaft. They sit closer to the surface, meaning they fade naturally over time with washing and styling. Factors such as hot showers, sun exposure, and harsh shampoos can accelerate fading. That’s why most stylists recommend refreshing your toner every six to eight weeks; a quick, low-maintenance way to keep your colour looking freshly done between appointments.
How to Keep Brassiness Away
Maintaining your tone between visits requires a little at-home care. Start by using a colour-safe, sulfate-free shampoo and conditioner, such as those from Davines. Sulfates are harsh detergents that can strip pigment from your hair, causing your toner to fade prematurely. For blondes, a purple shampoo once or twice a week can help keep yellow tones in check, while brunettes can benefit from a blue shampoo to neutralize warmth.
Reducing the use of hot tools (or applying a heat protectant before styling) further protects your tone from fading. If you live in Montreal, where the water can be hard, consider installing a shower filter to minimize mineral buildup, which can alter your hair colour over time.
Toners Aren’t Just for Blondes
It’s a common misconception that toners are only for blonde hair. In reality, toners can enhance and maintain any hair colour. Brunettes use ash or beige toners to soften red undertones, while redheads rely on toners to keep their copper shades rich and dimensional. Even clients with grey or platinum hair benefit from toning: silver and pearl toners help maintain that cool, elegant finish while adding shine and smoothness.
Your Colour, Perfected
Think of toning as the final step in keeping your hair colour looking polished and professional. It’s a small but essential part of maintaining your salon results, ensuring your colour stays true to tone, glossy, and full of life.
So, if your hair is starting to look a little warmer than you’d like, don’t wait until your next full colour appointment. A quick toning session can bring your shade back to its original brilliance. Just in time to embrace the cozy, colourful days of fall in Montreal.